Day 8 - Heading home, the long way

This was all right. It was raining steadily so packing up and getting ready to leave wasn't as nearly as traumatic as it might have been had it been bright and sunny.

Day 7 - Bubble, bubble, toil and summit

Our last full day in the park wasn't bright and sunny. As a matter of fact, it had rained all night and it was still drizzling with more showers in the forecast. Still, given the options of driving an hour north to check out Schoodic Point, the mainland portion of the park or attacking as many summits as we could, we chose to stay and climb. A good choice. We had looked through our guide book and had marked all of the easy and moderate trails, figuring that the kids would be able to handle those. The strenuous trails we thought could wait until our next trip and the ladder trail - which consisted of iron rungs pounded into vertical rock faces - would definitely be for the future. The kids had done very well with the moderate trails so we figured, what the heck, let's try one of the strenuous trails and see what happens? If there is a problem we can always turn around... We decided to climb the Bubbles that overlook Jordan Pond. The South Bubble is rated as a strenuous trail whereas the North Bubble is rated as moderate.
the rain had finally let up, so we set out to tackle the South Bubble. We shouldn't have been worried. The kids, being the natural climbers that they are, really have no conception of easy versus strenuous and loped up the trail with no difficulty. Karen and I held our breath and tongues a few times, but we couldn't have had more fun. The view from the top was spectacular. The summit looks down on Jordan Pond and in the distance, the ocean can be seen providing an amazing vista. After a quick snack, we headed back down then took the turn to the North Bubble. This trail was a piece of cake in comparison. There were many steep climbs, but wooden staircases had been laid in the trail. By the time we reached the summit of this Bubble though, the mist and clouds had moved back in and really nothing could be seen below the summit. It was an ethereal experience. On the top of the Bubble there sits a huge boulder, left by the glaciers, named Egg Rock. It sits precariously, leaning over the edge of a cliff. It looks as if it will fall with the slightest touch, but it is actually very secure - as we found out. The Bubbles having been conquered, we decided to take the road and drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain. I really can't say enough about the power of rocks and boulders to inspire the childish imagination and need to move. It was chilly and damp but the kids were all over. There was a serious conversation about staying on the trails and rocks to preserve the environment on the summit. Several of the plants are very fragile and have limited biomes that can be quickly ruined with foot traffic. Cadi and Cole understood and tried to be careful.
It was time for lunch, so the negotiations began again... Mom and Dad prevailed with the offer of lunch at the cabin, hiking then dinner and ice cream in Bar Harbor. The afternoon was a bit better weather wise and we decided to take on the summit that held the most interest for our daughter - Acadia Mountain. At over 800 feet, Acadia is not huge, but the trail is rated as strenuous for several nearly vertical climbs and rock falls. Also, the round trip trail, which included a fire road at the end, was nearly 3 1/2 miles. Undoubtedly, this was the best hike of the trip - challenging, picturesque and just plain fun. The back side of the trail was dramatically different from going up. Where as the trail that we took up was heavily wooded with few views of the surrounding area, the way down was very open. There was a lot of scrub pine, wild blueberry bushes and the occasional birch tree. This was an interesting dichotomy. We finally made it back to the car and decided to head back in to town. It had become chillier as the day went on and the mist was thick and wet. It hadn't really dampened any of our fun while we were hiking, as the exertion kept us warm.
It was kind of sad, realizing that this was out last dinner on Mount Desert Island, but we were in good spirits and still enjoying ourselves. Dinner was a local sub place that served absolutely enormous portions for a cheap price. Not only was it good deal, but the food was really good. Afterwards, we headed out on the town to look for mementos of our trip and of course, a good place for ice cream. I don't remember the full name, but the Emporium on Main Street had some outstanding ice cream - the blueberry sorbet and the moose droppings were great. We did shy away from the lobster ice cream, though a brave soul did order some while we were there... We headed back to cabin to bundle up and begin the packing process.

Day 6 - Ah, the sweet smell of seasickness...

Tuesday seemed like it would be a much better day. Karen and I had agreed that even if I wasn't feeling 100% better, whale watching would certainly be a doable endeavor. We had gone on the whale watching cruise when we had been to Acadia 9 years before and recalled that it was a pleasant cruise that didn't require a lot of energy. The kids loved the idea. I did feel better, so everything was a go.
We parked in downtown Bar Harbor and walked to the wharf to get on the ship. The whale watching ships are pretty big - double hulled catamarans built for speed, stability and maneuverability. Still, the captain made sure to tell us that there was a pretty heavy swell - anywhere from 3 to 6 feet - and that some of might feel "a bit squeamish." Remember that. Setting out was great. The water was calm and wasn't too cold. We had brought warm clothing because the temperatures out in the open ocean could drop down to the high 40s. We passed the Porcupine Islands and that famous four-masted schooner that is on the Maine state quarter.
As we hit the open ocean though, the temperature began to drop quickly and the ship began to dip and roll a bit. It's pretty amazing how quickly that bit of motion can upset the whole body's sense of well being. Within minutes, a few people were using the easily accessible sea sickness bags. Fortunately, we felt fine - for the time being. Egg Rock lighthouse lies just a little ways off the coast and is an observation post for biologists to watch the arctic terns and puffins. We saw quite a few of them around the small nub of rock. Further into the ocean, the swells were a bit more serious. By this time, we had gone into the cabin to get some hot cocoa, as the outside temperature was a nippy 51 degrees. Cole was the first to fall... He had buried his head in Karen's lap and assured us he felt all right before he threw up. The "motion of the ocean" has affected us all, but not as badly as Cole. There was a lot of lying the head on the table and wondering when the ship was going to turn around. Of course, the purpose of the trip was to see whales! Oh yeah, almost forgot about that. No whales. Not even hint of a whale. Oh well.
The trip back in to Bar Harbor was much more pleasant as we were riding with the waves instead of plowing into them. The upshot was that because we didn't see any whales, we got tickets fro a another cruise when we go back to Acadia. Maybe we'll do the nature cruise next time.
Our stomachs had sufficiently recovered so that lunch seemed like a good idea. We went back to cabin after negotiating with the kids. They wanted to eat out for lunch and then hike. We countered with: go back to the cabin for lunch, go hiking and then eat dinner out and shop in Bar Harbor. Mom and Dad were successful.
For the afternoon, we traveled to the other side of the island to climb Flying Mountain, which was classified as a moderate hike. We lucked out again. The weather was perfect and there was virtually no one else on the trail. I was feeling much better and had no problem with it. Flying Mountain overlooks Somes Sound, Eagle Cliffs and Valley Cove. Somes Sound is the only fjord on the eastern coast of the United States. Normally, people think of Norway with fjords, but we do have our very own. Essentially, a fjord is a long, steeply walled ocean inlet that is fairly shallow at the opening and grows progressively deeper that was carved out by glaciers. The kids had fun just saying the word "fjord" over and over again. The trail from the top winds down to Valley Cove which is an idyllic spot. Legend has it that because of the relatively calm waters of the sound and privacy of Valley Cove, pirates would hide and ride out storms centuries ago in that spot. Supposedly, there is some treasure buried. We didn't look too hard though. The kids found their own treasure by wading the water, clambering over the rocks and pointing out the numerous jellyfish that we saw.
From Flying Mountain, we headed to Southwest Harbor to check out Bass Harbor lighthouse. This is probably one of the most lighthouses in the world. It sits right on the very southern edge of Mount Desert Island and has a nice view of the Cranberry Islands to the south. The kids were duly impressed with the building itself, but were quickly taken in by the rocky shoreline which of course, just begged to climbed on. We did this for a while and then decided to head back in to Bar Harbor for dinner. What would a trip to New England be without a lobster feast? That was dinner and it was delicious. The kids were adventurous and tried to lobster which they liked. After dinner, we shopped in town for souvenirs for a couple of hours - Cadi had to find the perfect sweatshirt that had Acadia on it. It was finally tracked down... Tomorrow, we plan on climbing more peaks as it is our last day. :(

Day 5 - The spirit was willing

Monday morning broke as a perfect day for hiking and experiencing the natural wonder that surrounded us. Unfortunately, my body definitely did not agree with this. I still wasn't feeling well, but decided that really all I needed to do was get moving and hydrate with water and Gatorade. I was wrong. We hit the park fairly early and navigated the park road to the trail head for Cadillac Mountain. At a little over 1,500 feet, Cadillac is the highest point on the eastern shore of the United States. The trail is a little over 2 1/2 miles long and should have taken about an hour and a half to climb.
We started up with no problems and were treated with frequent views of Bar Harbor and the "Porcupine Islands." These little islands are sharply humped, upcropping granite that are covered with bristly pine - thus their name. The kids and Karen were doing fine, but I was quickly flagging. About a third of the way up the trail, I had to call it quits. I was feeling down right awful. Cadi and Cole weren't happy about the decision to turn back and we discussed options but finally arrived at the decision that the only choice was to all head back down and go back to the cabin.
After we got back, I laid down and Karen and the kids had lunch, while they planned their afternoon. They decided that they would tackle Great Head, a low uprise that overlooks Sand Beach and gives a beautiful view of the ocean... I'll let Karen take over from here.

Day 4 - Into the park and beyond

Ah, the sweet smell of jack pine, the sound of surf crashing on the shore and the sight of majestic bald granite. Acadia truly is one of the wonders of this world. We started out Sunday morning by deciding to tackle a trail that would allow us to hike up a moderate mountain and experience the ocean shore – the Gorham Mountain / Ocean trail. Gorham mountain trail rises 525 feet alongside the ocean. If one parks at the mountain trail head, the hike winds around approximately two miles up one side and down the other to the entrance of Sand Beach, where the shore trail is easily accessible.

While not overly exerting, the views are magnificent from the trail. Going up, the ocean and Sand Beach are visible, with each sighting being more breathtaking than the last. It was fairly cloudy and misty, but that did not detract in any way from the experience. There was not a bad view to be found, and the quest for the next best view was compelling. We set no speed records as we hiked with our 8 and 5 ½ year old children as they were easily distracted by the abundant blueberries just ripe for the picking. Eventually, though, we made the summit and enjoyed celebrating their accomplishment. The climb down the other side of the mountain went quickly and we exited the trail onto the Park Loop Road just above Sand Beach.

We spent a while down at sea level to take in the sand and the cold, crashing waves and then ventured down the Ocean Path which allowed us to explore the rocky shores. Our kids discovered a new challenge when we ventured off the beaten path and crawled around on the granite cliffs to explore the nooks and crannies of Acadia. I really can’t think of a much more exhilarating way to get around. The uneven, tilted granite that has been pounded and eroded by wind and water – not to mention glaciers – offers a bevy of hand and footholds and is simply a joy to scurry around on like a mountain goat. This particular leg of our adventure ended at Thunder Hole.

Thunder Hole is a small, narrow inlet that faces the ocean at just the right angle to capture the waves and have them rebound back with a resounding BOOM that gives the area its name. From, here, we scrabbled on the rocks for a few more moments then worked our way back to the car. Round trip, it was 4 miles and it took us about 3 hours (give or take). We were famished, even though we had brought snacks and a lot of water. Bar Harbor was just a few miles away, so we left the park and found a good restaurant to refuel at.

The kids decided that after lunch, we should do some more rock climbing, so we went down the shore a bit from where we had been earlier, Otter Cliffs. The cliffs got their name not from otters, but from a now extinct breed of minx that would sun themselves there and looked a heck of a lot like – you guessed it – otters. Cadi found a marvelous tide pool with “busy little creatures, seeking out their destinies,” which was a highlight for her. After spending an hour or so at the cliffs – I know, what kind of parents are we, letting our kids jump around on cliffs, dozens of feet above the ocean like mountain goats? It is a blast though! Kids seem to have a natural fearlessness that insulates them somewhat. They don’t get nearly as tense as adults and are less likely to make missteps it seems. Back to the day though… From there we went on to Jordan Pond.

Jordan Pond is an idyllic, freshwater body that lies in one of the valleys carved out by the glaciers, thousands of years ago. Its sparkling surface is normally calm and reflective, providing a mirror to the amazing landscape that surrounds it. To the south are two rounded mountains, called the bubbles. Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on Mount Desert Island is visible as well as other shear mountain faces. The pond is quiet. A natural place to end the day’s travels and reflect upon the journey so far. Tomorrow, we plan on climbing the north face of Cadillac Mountain and the see what the afternoon brings.

Day 3 - on the road again

Today was a travel day – from Danvers, MA to Bar Harbor, ME. The total trip time was supposed to be around four and a half hours. It didn’t take much time to travel through the rest of Massachusetts and a small corner of New Hampshire, but Maine was a different story… Maine is big. Really big. As we went through Bangor, traffic started to slow down as apparently everybody traveling in Downeast Maine was planning on going to Acadia. Nonetheless, the growing excitement of the kids buoyed us as we hit Ellsworth and then crossed over the bridge on to Mount Desert Island. We got to our cabin site at approximately 2:15. The thing that marred this – at least for me – was a rather nasty case of gastrointestinal distress that had plagued me since midnight or so. I didn’t feel that great… The cabin though was very nice. Small, rustic but well suited to our needs. I highly recommend Hinckley’s if you happen to be going to Acadia. Karen and Cole headed in to Bar Harbor to get some groceries while Cadi and I stayed back at the cabin to rest. Nothing else too exciting to report. Tomorrow, on into the park that inspired our daughter's name.

Day 2 - Friday the 13th in Salem, oh my!

Friday the 13th seemed like an appropriate day to visit Salem, home of the witch trials in 1692 and the setting for Arthur Miller's, The Crucible. Of course, the REAL Salem is actually in Danvers, Massachusetts where we stayed in the Comfort Inn. Most of the actual historical material has been moved to present day Salem, but a few artifacts remain. Within minutes of getting in to Salem, the power of Friday the 13th reared its ugly head - we locked the keys in the car. Easily fixed with a call to AAA though. We followed the red historical trail around town. Among the highlights were a memorial park that commemorated the victims of the hysteria and a wax museum dedicated to the history of Salem. Now, "wax museum" usually screams obnoxious and outlandish, but this one was designed by teachers to actually educate the public. Imagine that! Our personal interest in the witch trials extends a little bit beyond the ordinary as two of my ancestors were hung as witches and one of my wife's ancestors was one of the original accusers.
After the witch museum, we ventured down to the waterfront to the Custom House, where Hawthorne wrote, The Scarlet Letter. Also close by is the famous House of Seven Gables. From there we traveled on to Gloucester. Apparently, most of Gloucester is under construction in some way, shape or form and is not terribly appealing at this point. We never did make it to where Sebastian Junger wrote about the Perfect Storm. Rockport was our next stop.
Just a little way up the coast from Gloucester, Rockport is completely different - it has charm and appeal. It is a fairly small community, with a few year round residents and many summer artisans. The environment is friendly and welcoming. Just a short distance from Rockport is Pigeon Cove, where Lousia May Alcott called home. The kids (and mom and dad) particularly enjoyed climbing of the break wall at the end of Bearskin Point. Tomorrow, off to Maine and Acadia.

Day ? - Starting out on vaca with the family

We started out this morning at about 8:15, with the car fully loaded, our stomachs full and full of excitement. Mapquest promised that the trip would be about 375 miles and six hours to our first destination - Walden Pond in Concord, Massachusetts. It was a beautiful, cool, clear day for travel. Early in the ride, we all took an oath in which we solemnly swore to not "whine, backtalk or bicker." Of course, that was quickly forgotten. It's always good to try though.
We stopped for a quick lunch after crossing over into Massachusetts. The kids heartily recommend the the pizza at Papa Gino's... The rest of the trip was then completed in about two and a half hours. Walden Pond was a little different than Karen and I imagined though. There were no crusty New Englanders in wide brimmed hats expounding upon the deliberateness of living or transcendental thoughts. Instead, there was an ice cream truck in the parking lot and a public swimming beach. So much for the simplicity of life.
All things considered, Walden is absolutely magnificent. Once the trail winds away from the beach, the peaceful serenity of the environment becomes apparent. From the bare granite outcroppings, fragile fir trees and captivating glimpses of the pond from various vantage points, it is easy to see why Thoreau and Emerson loved this place. "Kettle" pond is a an apt term - the landscape all slopes down to the massive bowl of the pond. A trail surrounds it (with a wire fence surrounding the trail to protect the shore) that leads to the site of Thoreau's cabin. Very moving. We were able to complete the circuit of the pond - with a side trip to check out the train tracks and to dip toes in the pond - in about an hour and a quarter. Well worth the trip.
Of course, reality had to be faced again upon leaving. A 27 mile trip to the hotel in Danvers, MA, took an hour and a half on I-95 during rush hour. So much for spiritual cleansing. Tomorrow, on to Salem, Gloucester and Rockport!

... the dog woofs discontentedly

Not the best of starts on this enterprise. Two posts in six days. Monumental feat? The question of course has come up, why the hell is this Czar Parker? Thinking quite highly of yourself aren't you? Well, yes and no. As I have mentioned, I teach high school English - every other year I teach sophomores. One of the books I teach is Orwell's Animal Farm. In preparing the students, I usually spend a week or so going over the historical context of the book. The class researches and learns about the Czars (Nicholas II in particular) and the Bolshevik Revolution - the name of which always gets a good response from the crowd. A couple of years ago, as I was explaining some of the basics, I gave the example of, "say I was the czar and you guys were going to take over the classroom, who's support would you need?" Thus, Czar Parker was born. Inextricably, the name has stuck through the intervening years and has become a permanent fixture. I kind of like it.

Day 1 - out of the nuthouse and into the asylum

This is my first attempt at a "blog." Nice word that -it sounds as though my five year old is turning up his nose at the potato salad that I put in front of him at dinner tonight. Which in fact, he did. That dovetails nicely with my daughter, who loudly announced that she had successfully downed four pieces of watermelon. How do you not like watermelon?
Enough of that though. It would seem a bit ingenuous of me to feel that I have an incredible amount to offer in the digital medium here... I suppose that I am a little more than literate, but the point being, this is for fun. Observations, grumblings, the occasional witty aside. If nothing else, this should prove to be an interesting foray. If nobody reads this, that's fine with me. Less embarrassment and fewer questions. As for the nuthouse? I suppose that would be daily life. The asylum? That's run by the inmates of the nuthouse, of course.