Day 4 - Into the park and beyond

Ah, the sweet smell of jack pine, the sound of surf crashing on the shore and the sight of majestic bald granite. Acadia truly is one of the wonders of this world. We started out Sunday morning by deciding to tackle a trail that would allow us to hike up a moderate mountain and experience the ocean shore – the Gorham Mountain / Ocean trail. Gorham mountain trail rises 525 feet alongside the ocean. If one parks at the mountain trail head, the hike winds around approximately two miles up one side and down the other to the entrance of Sand Beach, where the shore trail is easily accessible.

While not overly exerting, the views are magnificent from the trail. Going up, the ocean and Sand Beach are visible, with each sighting being more breathtaking than the last. It was fairly cloudy and misty, but that did not detract in any way from the experience. There was not a bad view to be found, and the quest for the next best view was compelling. We set no speed records as we hiked with our 8 and 5 ½ year old children as they were easily distracted by the abundant blueberries just ripe for the picking. Eventually, though, we made the summit and enjoyed celebrating their accomplishment. The climb down the other side of the mountain went quickly and we exited the trail onto the Park Loop Road just above Sand Beach.

We spent a while down at sea level to take in the sand and the cold, crashing waves and then ventured down the Ocean Path which allowed us to explore the rocky shores. Our kids discovered a new challenge when we ventured off the beaten path and crawled around on the granite cliffs to explore the nooks and crannies of Acadia. I really can’t think of a much more exhilarating way to get around. The uneven, tilted granite that has been pounded and eroded by wind and water – not to mention glaciers – offers a bevy of hand and footholds and is simply a joy to scurry around on like a mountain goat. This particular leg of our adventure ended at Thunder Hole.

Thunder Hole is a small, narrow inlet that faces the ocean at just the right angle to capture the waves and have them rebound back with a resounding BOOM that gives the area its name. From, here, we scrabbled on the rocks for a few more moments then worked our way back to the car. Round trip, it was 4 miles and it took us about 3 hours (give or take). We were famished, even though we had brought snacks and a lot of water. Bar Harbor was just a few miles away, so we left the park and found a good restaurant to refuel at.

The kids decided that after lunch, we should do some more rock climbing, so we went down the shore a bit from where we had been earlier, Otter Cliffs. The cliffs got their name not from otters, but from a now extinct breed of minx that would sun themselves there and looked a heck of a lot like – you guessed it – otters. Cadi found a marvelous tide pool with “busy little creatures, seeking out their destinies,” which was a highlight for her. After spending an hour or so at the cliffs – I know, what kind of parents are we, letting our kids jump around on cliffs, dozens of feet above the ocean like mountain goats? It is a blast though! Kids seem to have a natural fearlessness that insulates them somewhat. They don’t get nearly as tense as adults and are less likely to make missteps it seems. Back to the day though… From there we went on to Jordan Pond.

Jordan Pond is an idyllic, freshwater body that lies in one of the valleys carved out by the glaciers, thousands of years ago. Its sparkling surface is normally calm and reflective, providing a mirror to the amazing landscape that surrounds it. To the south are two rounded mountains, called the bubbles. Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on Mount Desert Island is visible as well as other shear mountain faces. The pond is quiet. A natural place to end the day’s travels and reflect upon the journey so far. Tomorrow, we plan on climbing the north face of Cadillac Mountain and the see what the afternoon brings.

Day 3 - on the road again

Today was a travel day – from Danvers, MA to Bar Harbor, ME. The total trip time was supposed to be around four and a half hours. It didn’t take much time to travel through the rest of Massachusetts and a small corner of New Hampshire, but Maine was a different story… Maine is big. Really big. As we went through Bangor, traffic started to slow down as apparently everybody traveling in Downeast Maine was planning on going to Acadia. Nonetheless, the growing excitement of the kids buoyed us as we hit Ellsworth and then crossed over the bridge on to Mount Desert Island. We got to our cabin site at approximately 2:15. The thing that marred this – at least for me – was a rather nasty case of gastrointestinal distress that had plagued me since midnight or so. I didn’t feel that great… The cabin though was very nice. Small, rustic but well suited to our needs. I highly recommend Hinckley’s if you happen to be going to Acadia. Karen and Cole headed in to Bar Harbor to get some groceries while Cadi and I stayed back at the cabin to rest. Nothing else too exciting to report. Tomorrow, on into the park that inspired our daughter's name.

Day 2 - Friday the 13th in Salem, oh my!

Friday the 13th seemed like an appropriate day to visit Salem, home of the witch trials in 1692 and the setting for Arthur Miller's, The Crucible. Of course, the REAL Salem is actually in Danvers, Massachusetts where we stayed in the Comfort Inn. Most of the actual historical material has been moved to present day Salem, but a few artifacts remain. Within minutes of getting in to Salem, the power of Friday the 13th reared its ugly head - we locked the keys in the car. Easily fixed with a call to AAA though. We followed the red historical trail around town. Among the highlights were a memorial park that commemorated the victims of the hysteria and a wax museum dedicated to the history of Salem. Now, "wax museum" usually screams obnoxious and outlandish, but this one was designed by teachers to actually educate the public. Imagine that! Our personal interest in the witch trials extends a little bit beyond the ordinary as two of my ancestors were hung as witches and one of my wife's ancestors was one of the original accusers.
After the witch museum, we ventured down to the waterfront to the Custom House, where Hawthorne wrote, The Scarlet Letter. Also close by is the famous House of Seven Gables. From there we traveled on to Gloucester. Apparently, most of Gloucester is under construction in some way, shape or form and is not terribly appealing at this point. We never did make it to where Sebastian Junger wrote about the Perfect Storm. Rockport was our next stop.
Just a little way up the coast from Gloucester, Rockport is completely different - it has charm and appeal. It is a fairly small community, with a few year round residents and many summer artisans. The environment is friendly and welcoming. Just a short distance from Rockport is Pigeon Cove, where Lousia May Alcott called home. The kids (and mom and dad) particularly enjoyed climbing of the break wall at the end of Bearskin Point. Tomorrow, off to Maine and Acadia.

Day ? - Starting out on vaca with the family

We started out this morning at about 8:15, with the car fully loaded, our stomachs full and full of excitement. Mapquest promised that the trip would be about 375 miles and six hours to our first destination - Walden Pond in Concord, Massachusetts. It was a beautiful, cool, clear day for travel. Early in the ride, we all took an oath in which we solemnly swore to not "whine, backtalk or bicker." Of course, that was quickly forgotten. It's always good to try though.
We stopped for a quick lunch after crossing over into Massachusetts. The kids heartily recommend the the pizza at Papa Gino's... The rest of the trip was then completed in about two and a half hours. Walden Pond was a little different than Karen and I imagined though. There were no crusty New Englanders in wide brimmed hats expounding upon the deliberateness of living or transcendental thoughts. Instead, there was an ice cream truck in the parking lot and a public swimming beach. So much for the simplicity of life.
All things considered, Walden is absolutely magnificent. Once the trail winds away from the beach, the peaceful serenity of the environment becomes apparent. From the bare granite outcroppings, fragile fir trees and captivating glimpses of the pond from various vantage points, it is easy to see why Thoreau and Emerson loved this place. "Kettle" pond is a an apt term - the landscape all slopes down to the massive bowl of the pond. A trail surrounds it (with a wire fence surrounding the trail to protect the shore) that leads to the site of Thoreau's cabin. Very moving. We were able to complete the circuit of the pond - with a side trip to check out the train tracks and to dip toes in the pond - in about an hour and a quarter. Well worth the trip.
Of course, reality had to be faced again upon leaving. A 27 mile trip to the hotel in Danvers, MA, took an hour and a half on I-95 during rush hour. So much for spiritual cleansing. Tomorrow, on to Salem, Gloucester and Rockport!